iran



Iran


I can't say I wasn't slightly concerned about traveling solo in Iran as a young British girl, but my time there was brilliant, and my pre-conceptions were shattered.


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If you would like to buy poster prints of any of my photos, please contact me. These uploads have been scaled down hugely, but their original quality allows them to be printed very large. Prices depend on size, but as a guide, an A3 poster is approximately £30, or an A3 photograph is approximately £15. They can also be printed on canvas and perspex.


Yazd

  
  
  
  
     
  
  

Yazd




The desert city of Yazd lies between the Dasht-e Kavir and the Dasht-e Lut deserts, hence being somewhat hot! The old town is a sleepy maze of village style architecture lining narrow unsealed roads. 

These photos show - 

The Jamme Mosque is usefully lit by a local film crew           

A shoe repairer hard at work

Street life. In Yazd Muslim men wearing these white robes were quite common, although I didn't see this elsewhere.             

Ayatollah, Banksy style!

In the bazaar                                                                   

Camel stew, which makes an exciting break from kebab, although was still technically a load of meat with rice!
                                                                                                                                                                 
A car parked in the old bazaar's covered streets            

In Yazd, I felt about 95% of women wore the chador, but throughout Iran, young girls are often dressed in typically girlie clothing, seemingly making the most of their fashion freedom whilst it is legal. This little girl will have to wear hijab clothing when she's 9 or 10 by law. 
                                                                                       
Women and girls rarely wanted their photo taken,  but these sisters were up for it!      

My hijab clothing makes my shadow appear to wear  a burqa, which bothered me.   
                                  
In the bazaar, buying silk, which Yazd is famous for.

Jamme Mosque

Rooftop view of the old town                                          

Not so hard at work, but smiling at every passerby



Village of Toudeshk Cho, Dasht-e Kavir Desert


  
  
  
  
     
  
  
  
  

Toudeshk




Spending time in the desert was the highlight of my time in Iran, the ingenious solutions to sustain village life are genuinely fascinating, and the 'moving sands' dunes, blasted by the wind, were an amazing sight.

These photos show - 

Me, somewhat toasty!                                                    

Footprints in the sand

Down the dunes                                                            

Boys with Toudeshk village behind them

Jumping                                                                         

The view from a mountain I scrambled up

Making bread at home                                                  

Dunes

Young girl carpet knotting - an almost inevitable career for desert village girls. She and her mother will work hard for a year to complete the 3 x 4m carpet, wrecking their eye sight in the process.   

Mountain bikes are very popular in the villages

Mountain view                                                               

Dunes

Dunes                                                                           

This water resevoir keeps water fresh, storing it up to 7m underground. The two towers draw cool air in and warm air out, and the roof is domed so that one side is always in shade, which keeps the whole inside cool. 
                                                                             
Desert village                                                                                      
                                                                                     
Me, hot and sweaty!                                                                                                                                              

Dunes                                                                            

Sunset


Abyaneh

  
  
     
  
   
  


Abyaneh



To get to Abyaneh, I hitchhiked from outside the infamous Natanz Nuclear Facility which enriches uranium - I didn't realise the bus would drop me there! Sleeping in a vegetable sellers spare room was a perfect base to then wander through the mountains and fields.

These photos show -

Tractor working in the fields                                         

Donkeys are a common method of transportation and labour in rural Iran
                                                                                      
Bike man, one of my favourite photos from Iran                                                                       

A view of Abyaneh

Walking out of the village early in the morning, I am offered breakfast. Iranian hospitality is unrivalled

Eating with the locals

The first scorpion I've ever seen. The yellow ones are more poisonous than the black, but less dangerous than red scorpions. 

Mountain view

Donkey in field                                                               

My Farsi phrasebook gets a workout outside of the cities    
                    
Tractor in field                                                               

Mountain view


Esfahan

     
  
  
     
  
  
     


Esfahan



Esfahan was my favourite Iranian city because it was so alive at night, the bridges and park land were packed with families enjoying each other's company. I did not expect such 'nightlife' from Iran. 

Mr Reza is 78 and has been printing table cloths for 65 years        

Mr Reza's son is a carpet seller

Esfahan bridges, alive at night                                     

Table cloth printing

In the Islamic republic of Iran, passengers often segregate their sexes at bus stops                 

On local buses throughout Iran the bus i divided in the middle, with women at the back and men at the front 
                    
The Imam Mosque in Imam Square. Renier described Esfahan in the 16th century as 'half the world' 

One of 5 daily prayer times

Brightly dyed chicks! Apparently this makes them more attractive to buy!

Esfahan bridges, alive at night

One of 5 daily prayer times                                       

Mosque detail

Jameh Mosque                                                            

Contemplation on the bridge



Zagros Mountains


  
  


Zagros Mountains



Looping my route so as to not repeat a bus journey in reverse, I braved the Zagros Mountains, which caused severe concern from a young over-protective Iranian man I met in Shiraz! They were great!

These photos show - 

Stunning scenery, described by Lonely Planet as this 'definitely qualifies as off the beaten track'            
                                                                                       
On a long distance bus I sit next to a 19 year old chador-clad girl reading the Quran. She communicated to me (mostly about God) by writing on a tissue. Her lack of awareness about western culture and other religions shocked me. 

The worst kebab I ate, at a bus terminal                       

Stunning scenery


Tehran

  
  
     

  


Tehran



Tehran does not have the tourist draw cards of my other destinations, but walking around north Tehran in the evenings amongst the western-hungry Tehran elite was yet another experience I did not predict before arriving in this country full of juxtapositions. 

These photos show -

Anti-US murals along the outer wall of the ex               
US embassy, now called the US Den of Espionage    

Bazaar boy

A view of Tehran, from the Tocal Telecabin                   

Anti-US murals along the outer wall of the ex US embassy, now called the US Den of Espionage
                                                                                       
Bazaar life                                                                        

Woman wrapped in a chador

This billboard encouraging the use of chadors translates along the lines of saying chadors protect women in the same way as a lobsters shell

Anti-US murals along the outer wall of the ex US embassy, now called the US Den of Espionage  


Shiraz

  
     


Shiraz



Shiraz failed to grab me as a city, but Persepolis is one of the very few historical sites that I have enjoyed!

These photos show -

Detail at the Nasir-Ol-Molk Mosque                            

The magnificent site of Persepolis       

Wall carvings at Persepolis show palace security welcoming guests from around the world

Nasir-Ol-Molk Mosque

If you would like to buy poster prints of any of my photos, please contact me. These uploads have been scaled down hugely, but their original quality allows them to be printed very large. Prices depend on size, but as a guide, an A3 poster is approximately £30, or an A3 photograph is approximately £15. They can also be printed on canvas and perspex.

These photos were taken on a Canon G9 camera always on manual setting, and edited in Apple's Aperture.

All images © Chloe Kenward


chloe@chloekenward.com

+44 7852 922 285